Tuesday to Saturday: 6:00pm - midnight
Artner Pescetaria
Floragasse 6
1040 Vienna-district 4
.How to get there
It is just under 500 kilometres from Vienna to the nearest coast. Which doesn't mean, of course, that you can't get good fish in Vienna. But one restaurant specialising entirely in fish and seafood (and does without meat) stands out in the capital of schnitzel and Tafelspitz.
Chef Konrad Kamprad, who previously worked in Hamburg, knows fish very well. But he also conjures up vegetables perfectly on the plate. Because that is what makes Pescetaria special: the "Aqua", which ranges from pickled salmon trout to crispy pulpo, is contrasted with the vegetarian "Flora". Guests can choose according to their mood and put together their own menu. Four, six or eight courses - with wine accompaniment if desired.
In the end, there are considerably more because first, there is a lavish selection of bread and crackers on a wooden board, along with walnut butter and pesto. Then, we continue with a greeting from the kitchen. Unfortunately, the vegetable praline - consisting of creamy celery in crispy tempura batter, served with cloudy Parmesan cream - is gone in one bite.
As a consolation, a sip of wine. The wine list at Pescetaria is extensive. The restaurant is run by the Artner family, who have been growing wine since the 17th century. They cultivate 40 hectares in the Carnuntum wine-growing region, which stretches east of Vienna to the Slovakian border.
Then comes the first starter: "Parsnip, grape, sunflower seeds, kale" hides a turret of fluffy cream and grape gel. The crustacean bisque is eaten over a shrimp-filled Mirabelle taco. Smells heavenly and tastes just as good. And then there is another surprise course on the table: a fruity blood orange sorbet with olive oil as a "little refreshment for in between".
Wonderfully refreshed, we sink into our chairs. You should take your time for an evening at the Pescetaria so that you can fully enjoy the food (each plate a surprising combination of flavours and textures), the service (warm and attentive) and the ambience (warm light and no hustle and bustle).
For the main course, the choice is tagliatelle (with parmesan, sage and egg yolk, a kind of vegetarian carbonara and proof that it usually doesn't take much at all). On the aqua side, there is salmon and pulpo - one of Konrad Kamprad's favourites, which he now serves in winter with black beans and sweet potato. In summer, he also likes to serve it with yoghurt and lemon, but it should be " warming " for the cold months.
He is most pleased when guests "can't say what they liked best. Because they liked everything. We can certainly do him that favour.