Foodnews
The Stadtmenü at Rutz Zollhaus This is what will be served at Berlin Food Week 2021
A light breeze is blowing across the Kreuzberg Landwehrkanal, but you can still sit outside wonderfully. Especially, of course, when the terrace is as beautiful as it is at the Rutz Zollhaus. The team around the Rutz provides everything in the old half-timbered house for an enjoyable marriage between tradition and modernity. We, for one, have been fans from the very beginning.
On the occasion of the Berlin Food Week 2021, the Rutz Zollhaus demonstrates from September 20th to 29th in the Stadtmenü how culinary delights and climate friendliness can come together. We were already allowed to feast and what can we say: It was consistently delicious!
To start, host Henrik Canis brings leek butter with bread and a little glass of Blanc de Blanc - both are fabulous and promise a magical evening that convinces not only with wonderful dishes but also with a fine wine accompaniment. At the Rutz Zollhaus, of course, this is not surprising.
The aperitif comes, like the following wines, from the action "Rutz Rebels", which is created in close coordination with the Rutz and friendly Wineries, in this case with family Ziereisen from Baden. Those wines are bottled exclusively and are determined by their unique, strong character and just rebellious note.
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This also applies to the Gutedel in the first course. Fresh and fine citrus notes complement the different shades of green on the plates and bowls. For the appetizer, it's "table full" with all sorts of delicacies. The iced cucumber soup with curry herb, whey and pickled mustard seeds is of such an intense green that one dreams oneself directly to lush summer meadows.
A quasi signature dish of the Rutz Zollhaus is the grilled lettuce: the combination of rush flavors to the intensely lemony and wonderfully buttery honey tarragon vinaigrette is strong and yet surprisingly fine. Although it's hard to resist, be sure to save some bread for pipping. Finally, the fermented flavors of yogurt and pickled peppers and radishes go hand in hand with the yellow pea falafel. "We wanted to incorporate some Kreuzberg flavors," Mennicken explains. Delightfully homey!
Tones of green seems to be the unofficial motto of the Stadtmenü at Rutz Zollhaus, as green continues. That all the components are perfectly cooked is almost redundant to mention. Everything is wonderful on its own, but in the composition, the meatiness of the Müritz char, the comfort of the spinach leaves, grilled cucumber and the fresh pop of the salmon caviar only reach their top form.
The "rosé wine for adults" (a Rappen fermented Pinot Noir also from the Ziereisen family) with it makes for an honest and equally elaborate course that leaves you satisfied and at the same time curious about dessert.
That, too, is a poem on the plate. Not too sweet are both the Saar Riesling from Maximilian Kunow and the pickled Brandenburg cherry. Sweet pastry with a filling of lemon butter crème infused with subtle spruce flavors, the acidity of the pickled cherries and sparkling wine foam; the cherry ice cream on top is a stunner - this dessert has it all.
Early autumn at it's best - thank you Rutz Zollhaus!
The whole menu is available for €63.
Translated by Alexander Brandes
