Restaurant Mastan Unagitated French bistronomy

It should be balanced. A place where everyone feels good, free of chichi. But with a balanced, French bistro cuisine that surprises and yet remains honest. This is the concept of Restaurant Mastan, the first restaurant of Yann Mastantuono, who earned his spurs in the kitchen of 3-star chef Alain Ducasse.

"My time at Ducasse was extremely challenging and educational, which prepared me very well for starting my own restaurant." Yann, who as he says himself loves challenges, has managed two of Ducasse's Paris restaurants as head chef, first Le Verre Volé sur Mer, and later additionally Aux Lyonnais - Alain Ducasse - an enriching but also depriving time.

With his partner, the German-French artist Dorothée Louise Recker, he wanted to make a new start and offer his young family - the couple has a two-year-old daughter - some deceleration. Since they both love Berlin, they made the decision to start a new business. Mastan, located on the sunny side of Gneisenaustraße, offers creative, upscale bistronomy in a relaxed atmosphere.

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"I'm glad people understand what I'm trying to achieve with my restaurant," Yann reveals to us. Soft cream and earth tones, warm lighting and discreetly placed pictures create a cosy bistro feeling that could also be found in Montmartre.

The menu is just as simple: four starters, main courses and desserts each, always with a vegetarian alternative, and some snack plates to share, which can also accompany the straightforward wine enjoyment. This is worthwhile because where the menu, which changes every three weeks, is simple, the wine list is extensive. There are also expensive drops, but Mastantuono is keen to remain fairly priced. The price by the glass for open wines is only 5 to 6 euros, and bottles are available for as little as 25 euros.

We start with a wonderfully fresh Crémant de Loire, which accompanies our plate of hand-cut Coppa Ibaiamas at the counter, a special ham with a subtle hint of salt. This and some other cold meats, oil and cheese are the only imported products from France. In general, the cuisine at Mastan sources as much as possible from Brandenburg or German production.

The starters, accompanied by a Grüner Veltiner, are more playful. The vegetarian option is an incomparably creamy soup of iced peas with goat cheese and pimento de la vera. The bright green colour is fun to look at and contrasts strongly with the tartare of veal, oysters and Granny Smith apple, creating an exciting palate experience with its intense flavours of meat, sea and fresh sweetness.

But it is our main courses that excite us the most. Across from me, the roasted celeriac with a grenobloise and smoked almonds show how exciting vegetarian cuisine can be: Tender, aromatic and accompanied by the combination of flavours so subtly that the celery taste does not dominate too strongly.

I again dare to try a dish I would not usually order: pork neck with Basque black pudding. As hoped, I am proved wrong because the Basque black pudding has nothing to do with the mushy, cold and, in my eyes, rather unpleasant German or English variety. Instead, it has a light bite, excellent seasoning and a hint of crunchiness because, in the Basque version, there is not only blood but also belly meat. It and the tenderly cooked neck are cleverly complemented by the bitter flavours of pimentos de Padron and radicchio tardive.

For dessert, the question always arises in France: sweet or cheese? Naturally, we opt for both and are not disappointed. Yann gets the cheese selection next door from Les Epicuriens in the Marheineke market hall. The fine platter is accompanied by plum compote and delivers the salty-sweet rounding it promises. On the other hand, the airy apple clafoutis fulfils the wishes of every "Sweet Tooth" and ends the meal just as worthwhile.

The motto of balance and unexcitingness has been confirmed. The Mastan is a place that allows for a relaxed and enjoyable time. From summer onwards, also in the sunshine on the terrace, which is already being planned.

Maximilian Zeh

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