Restaurant Bostich Joie de vivre under golden palms

Tightly packed yet cosy, the bright red terrace seating of the recently opened Bostich restaurant in Willmersdorf. If at first glance you think it's a Parisian bistro, you're at least half right because in this restaurant, France, Switzerland and Germany meet in a skilfully executed homage to Berlin's golden 20s.

Skilfully is the keyword here. Yllnora Semsedini and Simon Bühler, who also run the Torbar in a similar style, wanted to create a beautiful place to celebrate the era that Berlin and Paris have always mourned. You won't find moustachioed waiters in waistcoats, hats, or burlesque interludes, as they are often found in cocktail bars inspired by the 1920s.

Instead, great importance was attached to making the interior authentic, with a mix of genuine designer pieces, walls, and ceilings designed in the old Berlin style. Simon, who is a passionate collector of old, authentic things, has lovingly filled the inventory. It's an endeavour to which I feel a strong affinity.

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So in Bostich, between Maison Jansen lamps - the ceiling lamp even has a specially made stucco base - original paintings such as an Escargot advertisement from the 1930s or a lithograph by Picasso and magnificent mint-green wall tiles, you can enjoy unpretentious yet high-quality bistro cuisine.

Simon puts together a selection of his favourite dishes, many linked with an anecdote, as we sip a glass of Champagne Bostich, and a Sun of Normandie, a delicious cocktail of Champagne, Calvados, pear and Riesling.

A trio of vegetarian starters kicks things off. A lovely carpaccio of white asparagus, with parmesan and sauce gribiche, is set against a plate that couldn't be simpler yet perfectly represents the spirit of the menu: Radishes with smoked butter and sea salt. This is accompanied by a couple of oeufs mimosa, hard-boiled eggs with mayo and truffle slices, and a delicious aubergine tartare that tastes almost like the meaty original.

As much as we enjoy the interior, the matt pewter counter that gradually absorbs the traces of use and thus writes its own history is evenly remarkable, so we are drawn outside. A lot is going on on the terrace. People sit close together but without crowding each other. It suits the charm of Bostich, which is named after a song by its partner, the Swiss musician and conceptual artist Dieter Meier and his band Yello.

The main course is a simple yet tasty dish from Simon's homeland: Zürcher Geschnetzeltes with Rösti, which is ladled out of a pretty copper pot. This is accompanied by a classic, purist truffle risotto, in which the flavour of the noble tuber comes into its own.

The evening is rounded off with a crêpe suzette, specially flambéed by chef Sarah Fillet at the table. As host, Simon fully embodies the atmosphere that Bostich is supposed to deliver. Informality, joy and a dose of classicism. A welcome journey in modern Berlin.

Maximilian Zeh

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