Gmoakeller Vienna's Wirtshaus Culture Done Right

Before I knew about Vienna's traditional "Wirtshaus" - what the locals call their restaurants - culture, I thought of Gmoakeller as more of an ordinary pub. And as a German, pubs and good food do not go together for me.

Sebastian Laskowsky, who grew up in gastronomy, took over in 2000. At that point, only few people ever passed by anymore. Unlike today, where your chances of getting a table without reservation are close to none.

I've been impressed by the premises and the fact that I get seated in a different very scenic room or the vault that is elegantly decorated in brown and white. And even more so, it impresses me that the tavern seats 230 peple while still feeling as cozy as your neighborhood corner pub. I raise my hat to the young chef and his team!

In terms of cuisine, I recommend the Viennese classics which are all done plain and very well. Those who dare, I suppose, could go for Gmoakeller's Markscheibenbrot, a hearty dish of marrow bones, or choose to go for the roasted brain or roasted blackpudding. To keep things interesting at all times, there are changing seasonal dishes to choose from, too.

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Summing it up: a German pub and a Viennese “Wirtshaus” could not be more different, because antique furniture and traditional food are part of Vienna's finest establishments.