Restaurants
Heritage Berlin Prussia enters the 21st century here
© Steffen Sinzinger
Map
Opening Times
Tuesday to Saturday: 6:00pm - 11:00pm
Address
Heritage Berlin
Charlottenstraße 52
10117 Berlin-Mitte
.How to get there
price level
We already presented the Heritage Restaurant, which opened in February at Berlin Food Week, where we were able to taste the "New Meat" city menu from the hands of Florian Glauert, kitchen director of Heritage Restaurants. Now we find ourselves back again to get a deeper insight into the kitchen philosophy of the classy yet relaxed restaurant at Gendarmenmarkt.
Heritage is a theme that the restaurant and the associated Hotel Luc certainly embrace. Located on the Gendarmenmarkt in Berlin Mitte, the Wilhelminian influences of the surroundings are undeniable. In a playful way, the room concept here takes up this heritage, interprets it in its own unique way and thus brings it into the 21st century.
For example, the photo prints by photo artist András Dobi, which are discreet in the restaurant and strongly represented in the hotel, are striking: With the help of his models, he breaks up the imperial by combining Prussian costumes with a colourful modernity of queerness, tolerance and multicultural society.
1 | 6
This fits in with the Heritage's motto of finding newness in the old familiar and creating a place where people enjoy spending time. The atmosphere is calm, and the Prussian blue tones combined with warm wood and copper elements create a decelerating restaurant experience, where the choice of dishes also invites casualness and, like the interior, combines splendour and modernity.
The cuisine at Heritage is as much about fine dining as it is about the simpler fare. You can enjoy a piece of Wagyu here just as much as simple meatballs with perhaps not-so-modest truffle fries. Everyone should feel at home here and get their money's worth. This is probably best achieved with the Floating Menu, which treats two people to a flowing sequence of ten dishes to share.
Unfortunately, we don't have enough capacity for that tonight, so we make do with a selection from the menu. Since we are in the mood for something light, we choose the fish plate. I am greeted by a beautifully arranged tataki, tuna seared briefly but raw at the core, with pumpkin dashi and truffle cream. Very fine, as was my companion's salmon with grapefruit, sesame and miso.
Between courses, there is time to look around. A beautiful old wall of cupboards catches the eye, taken over from the former Aigner restaurant and around which the room concept has been skilfully designed - another reference to the heritage. Also recognisable in the separately bookable club room, where groups can retreat in the company of an old safe and an (inactive) fireplace.
The culinary grounding comes with the stringent yet refined main course. A poached fillet of incredibly tender beef and a stuffed butcher's onion delight me with rustic notes, while my companion turns to the sea. Cod with miso and kale salad offers a mix of different cuisines. Because they are virtually obligatory at Heritage, we treat ourselves to a portion of crispy truffle fries to go with it.
Dessert has two more surprises in store: First, I surprise myself because, against my nature, I decide against chocolate and choose "I hate chocolate": it turns out to be a fine plate combining the plum familiar to Germans with Japanese flavours of a black sesame ice cream. A special dessert that is not too sweet and pleasantly light. The same goes for the second surprise: a sorbet surprise. I don't want to describe it in detail here because I don't want to spoil the surprise. Just this much: this dessert is convincing in more than one way. Have fun finding out!
