Tuesday till Saturday from 18.30
Golvet
Potsdamer Straße 58
10785 Berlin-Tiergarten
.How to get there
We knew going in that the view from the newly opened restaurant Golvet was supposed to be incredible, but we had no idea how casual the locale would be. Even the dreary weather outside the circumferential window, which offers a view from east to west, can’t damper our enthusiasm over the ambience.
We could easily stay seated at the bar’s endlessly long counter, which greets you upon entering Golvet, it’s just that lovely. Alas, we decide to stop by for a drink at the next opportunity- ideally in the summer at sundown, when we can enjoy a view to the west.
Our look through the menu is sweetened by two drinks that already make us want more: a pisco sour and the cocktail of the week with vodka and a touch of woodruff. It may sound odd, but it was actually quite incredible! Golvet is lucky to have sommelier and restaurant manager Benjamin Becker on board.
And he loves his new domain as well, barely able to contain his excitement. We don’t blame him! But now for the food… Salmon marinated in a nut butter kicks things off, and is simply smashing.
A room temperature king crab sautéed in butter with cucumber served two ways, ponzu broth, and scorched mango follows along with a Buratta gazpacho with peach, raspberry shallots, and a tiny braised rabbit cake. The charcoal oil in the soup is a brilliant touch!
Accompanying the grilled slices of a yellow-finned mackerel are fine pancetta, diced apple marinated in soy, and a spicy emulsion of ginger, green apple, coriander, and chilli. Venison soft as butter with cauliflower sundries, black cumin, and a Polish dim sum brings our six-course menu to a wonderful close.
At the neighbouring table a cheese trolley, impressive in every aspect, arrives. We’re stunned, but ultimately decide on a sweet finish in the form of a heavenly fragrant pavlova with Chantilly lavender, strawberry Mara de Bois, and burnt honey ice cream.
Just on time for dessert, the sun begins to set on the horizon, giving way to a breathtaking view- which gets an extra kick thanks to a mojito sorbet with jelled rum. What a place!