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Ganymed French brasserie in rooms steeped in history
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Opening Times
Monday to Sunday 9-0 h
Address
Ganymed Brasserie
Schiffbauerdamm 5
10117 Berlin-Mitte
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Ganymede - the most beautiful of all mortals in Greek mythology, called to Zeus to serve as cupbearer. Beauty and wine - a fitting name, then, for a French brasserie. But it is not only the name of the restaurant located directly on the Spree that is steeped in history. The premises have existed since the end of the 19th century. From a restaurant for dock workers to a bank to a cult restaurant in GDR times, where Berthold Brecht and Helene Weigel also dined: the Ganymed Brasserie has seen a lot.
Fifteen years ago, Michael Pankow took over the restaurant and made it the centrepiece of the venues he runs, which include Brecht's Steakhouse, the Vincent Piano Bar and the Bar á Vin. The premises of the Ganymed Brasserie present themselves in classic French, unobtrusive chic. Beautiful stucco ceilings, dark wood tones, warm lighting, parquet flooring, and chandeliers create an upscale yet relaxed atmosphere.
What's more, everything has been freshly renovated, as chef Pietro Solito tells us. Pankow, nominated as Employer of the Year in 2022, not only pays above-standard wages but also made good use of the lockdown periods to renovate the restaurant, involving the team so they could continue to be paid and avoid compulsory redundancies. Accordingly, the kitchen team has remained unchanged for six years, a blessing for a chef, as Pietro confirms.
During our visit, we can see the efficiency of the collaboration for ourselves. Over a glass of crémant, we ponder our choice. On the one hand, it is winter, and there is an extensive Christmas menu. On the other hand, we also want to reflect the brasserie character and try something out of season. My companion, therefore, chooses the four-course Christmas menu with goose leg. I am tempted by the lobster already depicted in the Ganymede logo and choose the Paris menu.
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The idea of the Christmas menu, similar to Brecht's, is to offer alternatives to the classic Christmas goose. As some of you have probably noticed, this is more expensive than ever to buy this year. Therefore, the Ganymed Brasserie has a selection of Christmas dishes for every taste and budget. Pietro emphasises that the aim is to remain fair and attractive to Berliners despite its prominent location in Mitte and not to become a tourist trap.
We can confirm that. Our mouths begin to water with the first course. The celery and parsnip soup from the winter menu is pleasantly warm, and the salmon tartare with wasabi from the Paris menu is fresh and a successful maritime introduction to the latter. A glass of Luberon Blanc rounds off the taste of the starter. While I wait for my self-imposed challenge - eating lobster properly is an art in itself - my counterpart is served half a quail on poultry innards ragout with chestnut puree. Small but very fine, winter is successfully served on the plate.
The lobster arrives at the table and, with it, the respect for the upcoming carving. Mercifully, however, it is already pre-cracked in the right places, so I don't embarrass myself and can fully enjoy the delicious interior. The lobster bisque is wonderfully spicy and complements the bed of tagliolini beautifully.
The goose leg opposite tastes precisely how you want it: crispy skin, tender meat, hearty red cabbage and fluffy potato dumplings - goose fans will get their money's worth. Fortunately, the dessert that follows is relatively light; apple-calvados crème brûlee fills the last gaps in the stomach. As does a less light but delicious cheese selection. After all, we are here in France (in our minds).
We discover that the Ganymed Brasserie is a great place to dine, with courteous service and a warm atmosphere. In summer, you can also sit outside in the wonderful area directly on the Spree. The ambience is particularly fitting given the rich selection of fish and seafood, some of which is also available in winter. And if you're looking for festive poultry to take home before Christmas, you'll find it here, too.
