Markus SemmlerWhat ever happened to that star?

Tuesday, January 14, 2014
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Map
Opening Times

Thursday till Saturday from 17.00

Address Markus Semmler
Sächsische Straße 7
10707 Berlin-Wilmersdorf
How to get there
Contact
+49 30 890 68 29 0
www.kochkunst-ereignisse.de

When you enter Markus Semmler’s restaurant on Sächsische Straße, you see red. And that is because the interior is a wild concoction of old and new, artistic and functional objects all dominated by this powerful color. But the Hessian owner and I seem to share a favorite color so we both immediately felt comfortable in his kingdom.

And there he was. He’s tall and his way for the first Michelin star seems shorter than most - he would just have to lift his long arm and reach for one! And after all we’ve heard about this place, it’s about time too. We were pretty excited for what was expecting us. He’s a 7th generation chef in his family and ranks among the city’s most popular caterers. There’s hardly a royal happening or a celebrity that he hasn’t provided with his delicacies.

Sparkling champagne and still water to kick off the evening, we then received a home-baked tomato-focaccia along with iced goat milk butter and velvety red pepper cream cheese. Smoked eel on horseradish ice cream, black salsify and a salad are the lavish amuse-gueules. As well as a tiny Königsberger Klops along with a beet coated caper marshmallow that hits right home.

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The actual first course - beef tartare, quail egg and sardine in vintage olive oil - is no less better and comes perfected with caviar, capers and dill. Fresh sourdough bread in a crock and that homemade goat milk butter continue to keep us up while we’re waiting for the second course. Said course came only moments later in form of a scallop, sunroot and kohlrabi juice. Wonderfully fresh!

The following course had our neighbours worried - “What is that? Frog legs?!”, the lady asked, sounding highly irritated. But we actually enjoyed the tiny chicken-like thighs. Especially combined with an exquisite turbot, the actual protagonist in this dish, alongside a hint of truffle and veal jus. Phenomenal!

A little later we leaped at truffled guinea fowl and ragout, served with celery, Brussel sprouts and chestnuts. The holidays are not over just yet… It’s like Christmas all over again!

The two desserts were a delicate delight at the end. Cinnamon ice cream, mousse, brioche, pumpkin seed brittle… We disregarded all feelings of guilt. Every spoonful is worth the fast-breaking and the only question that remains open is: what ever happened to that star?

Click here for our 2015 post about Markus Semmler >>

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Markus Semmler - What ever happened to that star?
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