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Marta Expressive cuisine that stimulates and grounds

Tuesday, March 07 2023
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Opening Times

Wednesday to Saturday

Bar: 6:00pm - midnight
Kitchen: 6:00pm - 10:00pm

Address

Marta
Spritzenplatz 4
22765 Hamburg-Altona
.How to get there

Contact

...
+4940 35621400
.www.restaurant-marta.de
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Spending an evening with good food and competent wine accompaniment at Marta am Spritzenplatz in Altona is like embarking on a culinary journey.

Even though the two owners and passionate chefs Freddi and Bobby describe their cuisine as Hanseatic and unagitatedly North German. What they conjure up on the plates tastes aromatically colourful, stimulating, diversely textured, surprising and offers guests cuisine with an international flair.

One reason for this diversity of flavours is probably that the two have used their work as chefs over many years to travel the world, get to know other cultures and work with the most diverse people. Another reason is their love of experimenting, inspiring each other and developing ideas.

They love being chefs. Even the parts of this particular profession that are not generally perceived as pleasant: Stress, noise, heat, and time pressure.

In 2020, shortly before the pandemic and lockdowns, they set about creating their own place that could offer them and their guests a temporary home. The Marta was born. The pandemic is now history for the time being, and the beautifully furnished, modern and cosy restaurant is flourishing. So to the table, please.

Restaurant Marta Hambug
Restaurant Marta Hambug (6)
Restaurant Marta Hambug (9)
Restaurant Marta Hambug (7)
Restaurant Marta Hambug (4)

To start, we enjoy a pickled dumpling, yellow beet tartare with fermented mushrooms and sake flavouring, a spinach roll with walnut, pickled egg with mayonnaise and a warming root elixir, accompanied by crispy, crumbly sourdough bread and smoked butter. The root elixir tastes herbaceous and strong, spreads pleasant warmth in the belly and awakens people and appetite.

Julia, who runs the restaurant at Marta, serves us a Grüner Veltliner to go with it. The wine is well chosen, and with its freshness and green reflexes it goes well with the earthy-spicy aroma of the food.

The next course is a juicy skrei, seared hot on the skin. We also enjoy a fish pie with a crispy potato crust. The roe of the skreis has been pickled and smoked, then sliced over the pie. This was accompanied by a parsnip, which was first deep-fried, and then the skin was removed to deep-fry it again until being crispy. The parsnip adds sweetness to the plate. The parsley root puree served with it nestles around a chicory pickled in honey from Finkenwerder and drinking vinegar made by Freddi himself.

Julia pours a Grüner Veltliner/Gelber Traminer from the Meinklang winery in Burgenland to accompany the meal. A wine with fresh citrus notes that Marta sources from the neighbouring Oxhoft wine shop.

Between courses, we have the opportunity to talk to Bobby and Freddi. During the short conversations, you can feel the enthusiasm and verve with which they run their shop. Freddi tells us about another of his projects: the production of vinegar. He makes vinegar from pears, apples, quinces and rose hips from the Old Country. We are poured a glass and experience the invigorating effect. "Vinegar and mustard sharpen the mind," Freddi explains.

For dessert, we eat tangy-fresh ice cream made from bergamot, sugary-buttery toffee that melts in your mouth, a slightly sweet, crumbly biscuit, a classic Basque cheesecake with the melodious name Gazta Tarta and goat's cheese cream on puff pastry with bergamot gel. A dessert selection can be so varied and tasty.

The dishes are eaten, and the wine is drunk. We enjoy the moment, gazing pensively out of the restaurant's large window at the illuminated Spritzenplatz. We feel comfortably nourished and refreshed. Thank you, Freddi, Bobby, Julia and Marta for this evening.

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