Prism The new language of Levantine cuisine

Tastefully minimalist in the décor, skilfully versatile in the cuisine - this is how we encounter Prism during our visit. Chef Gal Ben Moshe and his wife, sommelière Jacqueline Lorenz, have had a Michelin star since 2020. Now, we were allowed to see the Levantine fine dining concept for ourselves.

Upon entering the restaurant, the first thing that catches the eye is the discreet décor. The light grey tables and anthracite walls are pointedly lit. A flower arrangement stands as an eye-catcher on the gold-framed counter. After a short greeting by Jacqueline and Gal, we take a seat by the window, and Gal turns to the kitchen because six courses want to be prepared.

First of all, six courses is actually an understatement, as Prism is also characterised by its large number of amuse bouches, which impress with their creative variety. To welcome us, Jacqueline pours us a fruity Pierre Peters champagne, an excellent choice. No wonder, the multiple award-winning sommelière is counted among the 50 best in Germany. The rest of the evening's wine pairing focuses on Israel, a speciality at Prism, with its wine list containing over 230 items.

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The intro follows immediately: a sourdough bread baked over an open fire, with an olive oil emulsion instead of butter. We encounter smoke aromas even more frequently on the menu - also a speciality at Prism, as much of the food here is grilled on charcoal. "While it is hardly ever found in European kitchens, preparation over an open fire is still quite common in the Levant area," Gal reveals to us later.

His kitchen concept, he says, is to create a new language for Levantine cuisine, respecting classic ideas and concepts and taking them to a new level. It is not always easy since the terroir of many ingredients is 4000 kilometres away. But with a mix of Middle Eastern and regional products, exciting things are created here.

The amuse bouches come quickly and in large numbers, another advantage of fine dining. Measured against the number of plates served (15 in total), the service is unhurried but quick-witted, so that the evening doesn't last too long. Feulle de Brick, a croissant filled with labneh, grilled cucumber and trout roe matured in sake, tastes wonderfully fresh and shows us where the culinary journey is heading.

Brandade in tempura with sardines, a macaron with foie gras, harissa and mandarins and many other appetisers herald the actual dinner. We are particularly impressed by the lamb confit with yellow dates and radishes, which, Asia style, is rolled in a shiso leaf. As we have to go to the office the next day, we enjoy the wine accompaniment on a reduced scale but are pleased with the quite aromatic 2019 Soulmate from Israel for a Chardonnay, which Jacqueline hands us to start the menu.

What follows is so special that it is worth focusing on individual details. The shiso blossoms on top of the mackerel crudo, for example, delight us with their delicate note and the pickled Bulgarian peppers with their flavour reminiscent of capers. The black-feathered chicken is accompanied by foie gras rolled in vine leaves, which works surprisingly well. With the mansaf, a dish of a rack of lamb and sweetbreads whose origins are claimed by both Palestine and Jordan, we are delighted by a herb chip that, like learning in southern Italy, traditionally replaces Parmesan. A glass of 2019 Lewinsohn Garage de Papa harmoniously accompanies the main courses.

The dessert is opened by an exciting little Palate Cleanser, a mini pumpkin made of a layer of pumpkin soaked in calcium and coated in a yoghurt crèmeaux. The actual dessert is much more delicate. Camel milk ice cream, with honeycomb-like honey semifreddo and honey crisp, both however quite subtle in taste and not too sweet. Also exciting: the camel milk comes from a camel farm in Lower Saxony.

Three small amuses make the farewell: Turkish Delight made of guava, pralines with pine nuts and a sesame-miso-mandel ice cream. It's incredible what only three people can conjure up in the kitchen. We were excellently taken care of and are looking forward to the next projects Gal has planned, such as The Pink Room, which opened on 21 September.

Maximilian Zeh

Marketing & PR