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Golvet Restaurant Take me to the top

Saturday, July 03, 2021
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Opening Times

Thursday to Saturday from 6:00pm - 10:45pm

Address

Golvet Restaurant
Potsdamer Straße 58
10785 Berlin-Mitte
How to get there

Contact


+49 30 890 642 22
golvet.de

You feel a bit daring when you ring the bell at Golvet, because it's not only culinary that will be high up this evening: Golvet is located on the 8th floor and offers a magnificent view, which we were already enraptured by during our visit for the interview with Jonas Zörner. So now we finally get to taste his cuisine and see for ourselves the ideas and sophisticated cooking that earned him and his team a star in February. In fact, the view will absolutely fade into the background as the evening progresses. But from the beginning:

We are welcomed with a wonderful spritz variation from the bar and an amuse in the form of a lacto-fermented juice from yellow tomatoes that come straight from the sunlit rear roof terrace. Following the no-waste principle, the leftover juiced tomato has been transformed into a play of tomato mozzarella. This is accompanied by a chip of ceasar salad flavours with veggie anchovy from aubergine, and a wonderful foam of sunflower and apple in a tapioca sphere.

Golvet Restaurant Wagyu
Golvet Restaurant Wachtel und Hafer
Restaurant Bar Golvet Potsdamer Platz Berlin-17
Restaurant Bar Golvet Potsdamer Platz Berlin-12
Restaurant Bar Golvet Potsdamer Platz Berlin-15

We know the sunflower seed miso from our last visit for the interview, when it was already fermenting away on the counter. And the yoghurt-based Belper tuber that was grated over it was, of course, also created on site. All three amuse bouches convince with a play of ingenious textures and flavours that promise a lot for the rest of the evening.

One thing can already be revealed: We will not be disappointed. Resourceful, clever, always a twinkle in the eye, but resulting in an aromatic as well as textural accuracy that demonstrates that the professionals who work here in the open kitchen take their craft extremely seriously. Even with something as simple as the bread course: the legendary Golvet caramel butter is joined by the Berlin "equivalent of Café de Paris butter": the in-house Berlin Späti butter. It has "a little bit of everything, just like Berlin is," explains chef Jonas Zörner at the table.

Berlin, the birthplace of the young Golvet chef, is regularly found in allusions, but is not a dogma. The Wagyu tongue, for example, is cured and still achieves a nice freshness thanks to grilled fines de claire oysters, radishes and dill stock.

The next course takes us into the forest together with the Golvet team, because like us, they used the lockdown for extensive walks - and for mushroom picking. Among freshly picked porcini mushrooms, we also find pickled mushrooms from Berlin forests, a forest mushroom consommé that is unparalleled in terms of umami (poured from the French press at the table) and a cracker with goat cheese and spruce shoots. Programmatic for the aforementioned gimmicks that leave quite an impression: You can eat the leaves on the moss bed. Beautiful, clever, original.

What can we say: the same goes for a potato risotto whose consistencies skilfully imitate the Ossetra caviar on top. The kumquat gel cleverly counters the saltiness, the merguez stock (you have to dare to make a merguez stock) brings in some fruitiness. The wonderfully selected Chianti Classico from the Martini di Cigala siblings from the Fattoria San Giusto A Rentennano estate in Tuscany blends in with these Mediterranean aromas. We convince ourselves of their skills once again with the rosé in the last course.

The monkfish with artichoke salad, smoked bone marrow and champagne foam is a great pleasure, the Catalan natural wine Spill from non-conformists Ton Rimbau in Penedès a real speciality, altogether a great combination. The same goes for the quail duo with blood orange and the little refreshment from the bar that comes between the two main courses; a milk tea cocktail with almond milk and lemony fake caviar.

Oh yes, the bar under the direction of bar manager Andreas Andricopoulos deserves a special mention. By the way, he not only creates great creative drinks here, but also alcohol-free drinks in a class of their own for those who don't like alcohol. 

Two desserts follow: a strawberry tartlet with sorrel broth and a fabulous buttermilk ice cream, although the sakura hip made of self-gathered church blossoms from Potsdamer Strasse is a lot of gimmick; the mischievous hint at Berlin and Zörner's travels through Japan is worth it. Before we are allowed to visit the small roof garden, we are surprised by what is probably the prettiest dessert far and wide. The sugar foam with raspberry filling glistens golden, Valrhona Dulcey makes your mouth full, the hibiscus sorbet is a dream.

Like everything else. We couldn't stop raving about the evening. The whole ensemble of wonderfully selected wines, exquisite drinks, extremely cordial service and, of course, great food is a single highlight in its entirety. And did we mention the view from the 8th floor?

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