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Sagrantino 136 Italian-Peruvian fusion cuisine at its finest

Wednesday, July 28, 2021
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Opening Times

Tuesday to Saturday: 5:00pm - 11:00pm

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Sagrantino 136
Linienstraße 136
10115 Berlin-Mitte
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We have tasted many unusual dishes in our lives, unfamiliar ingredients, unconventional combinations, but Peruvian-Italian cuisine? We had little idea of what that was. To be honest, on this balmy summer evening, even reading the menu of Sagrantino 136 can't help but leave us unsure of what to expect when we take our seats on the small terrace in front of the restaurant, which is somewhat hidden from view near the Oranienburger Tor.

We obediently choose the tasting menu that chef Matias Diaz recommends. There are to be seven courses to choose from, three or five courses per person . In addition, Sagrantino 136 also offers an excellent a la carte menu.

Matias Diaz changes the menu every two months, combining the tastes of his childhood with high culinary artistry and demonstrating visual and taste inventiveness. Only one dish may always remain. We will find out which one it is and why it is always allowed to stay.

First, however, we are greeted by a fine hearty prelude to the evening ahead, where it is not only the visual presentation that immediately picks us up. The little tuna nest in particular is a poem: tender tuna flakes reminiscent of Serrano, plus crispy angel hair pastry that create the first aha moment of the evening. 

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We don't wait long and chef Matias brings another greeting from the kitchen. A charming and not least welcome gesture, as the chef always knows best about the components on the plate. And in this case they are very special: jacket potato in a mousse with the Peruvian herb huacatay, garnished with egg white pearls, olive dust. The herb, whose appearance is reminiscent of cannabis, is a popular culinary herb in Peru. The chilli variety Aji Amarillo gives the dish a surprisingly tone-setting but not unpleasant spiciness. The kitchen is daring. Now we have an idea who we are dealing with here.

Peruvian-Italian fusion cuisine. How come, we ask the chef, who spent his childhood in Peru? It's simple: the owner of Sagrantino 136 is Italian, hence the large selection of Italian wines. He trusts Mati's cooking skills, his vision, so he is allowed to act freely in culinary terms. Mati grew up not only with Peruvian cuisine, but also with the cuisine of his uncle, who is Italian. Moreover, there is a large community of Italian descendants in Peru.

Mati proves once again that this combination is extremely harmonious on a culinary level with his duck carpaccio with coriander, onion and broad beans, over which a ceviche broth is poured. In Peru, people like to eat entenceviche, Mati explains, the homemade duck ham enthroned on a kind of rillette is his allusion to Italy. By now, at the latest, the amiable host has us wrapped around his finger in terms of culinary delights.

This doesn't change with the next course, which we discussed earlier: Mati serves us his involtini with eagle fish, lemon pearls, straw and sweet potato puree, the leche de tigre is poured fresh at the table. Of course, ceviche is a must in Peruvian-inspired cuisine, a much requested classic. And we don't wonder at all why this dish is not taken off the menu.

Perhaps it is the best ceviche we know in Berlin. Since the leche de tigre is added just before eating, the sashimi-quality eagle fish retains its delicate sweetness. The pithy acidity of the leche de tigre, delicate aromas of coriander oil and red onion, as well as excellently used rocoto chilli make the Peruvian national dish an overall composition that combines the best qualities of all the ingredients to create a dish that is as elegant as it is refined and surprising. Enough words: simply amazing.

Then there is the not-so-simple task of recommending a wine to go with the dominant acidity. The service pours a fruity Italian as well as a Slovenian from the barrique - both harmonise wonderfully with the eagle fish ceviche. The wine recommendations will also prove to be extremely clever throughout the following courses.

The following courses at Sagrantino 136 also put us in a rapturous mood. Needless to say, the carabinero is cooked to perfection and the pasta course is a feast for the eyes with its rich spinach green and radiant egg yolk. Matias Diaz, who previously worked at the Mandala Hotel and Hugos, among other places, knows exactly what he can do and plans to demonstrate it to the whole capital at Sagrantino 136. 

Later, Mati has some more time for us, we chat about the reopening of the restaurant, the long lockdown and how happy he is to be able to work creatively again. "Everyone who comes should feel at home here," he wishes, "next time, come by for a pisco tour!" Because of course, in addition to the Italian wine list, the Peruvian national drink cannot be missing at Sagrantino 136. In the end, all that remains to be said is: Peruvian-Italian cuisine? Definitely try it!

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Sagrantino 136 – Italian-Peruvian fusion cuisine at its finest
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