More than just fine sushi Go by Steffen Henssler Pop-Up at Ritz-Carlton

What do TV chefs and luxury hotels really enjoy doing? Collaborations! This is not entirely new. The British Hellboy of the cooker, Gordon Ramsay, entered into international collaborations years ago. But now, Berlin is showing that it has also mastered this culinary game. With GO by Steffen Henssler, found in the wonderful Ritz-Carlton at Potsdamer Platz.

There was, and perhaps still is, somw shyness towards visiting a hotel restaurant. You have to cross the lobby before you reach the destination of your palate's desires. But is there anything more exclusive and at the same time more light-footed than entering a luxury hotel world on the red carpet, past the smart doormen? Through the spacious marble lobby with its grand staircase, past the lounge used for teatime and the Curtain Club that cultivates bar culture, you enter a restaurant world that amazes you.

To be honest, I was sceptical at first. Tim Mälzer came to reprise La Banca in the Hotel de Rome, and now he was followed, also from Hamburg, by fellow TV chef Steffen Henssler. Berlin doesn't like to have concepts hyped elsewhere imposed on it. However, that is precisely what the Ritz-Carlton and Henssler have not done.

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In addition to the initial sushi delivery, which also thrilled us and is still on offer, a restaurant has risen in the former Fragrance Bar of the luxury hotel that would also work perfectly in London, Paris, New York and Sydney: a tasteful, noble design world, shades of brown, beige and red, black columns, seating niches with high-backed wall benches, armchairs and low round tables, a metropolitan dining room with living room comfort.

Wines from Austria, France, Germany, Spain and Argentina are poured from the champagne bowl of a centrally placed table. In the dimmed light, the performance of the cocktail hook by bartender Guilherme - the White Lady and the Negroni with Twist are recommended - and the precise work of the sushi chefs seem like a subtle choreography.

Sushi and more, Asia at its best, the GO has set out to give premium products a showroom. Not aloof, but very close to the guest. With a fun factor, one may add, because the service crew acts passionately and relaxed. The young chef Artemy Lopatin knows the art of precise preparation and the presentation on the plate.

This is where high-end, cosy, and relaxed fine dining starts with the Pimientos de Padrón-like shishito peppers with sesame seeds and sweet miso, a finger nibble that goes well with an aperitif. Equally a healthy treat in shades of green is the shiitake salad with crunch and truffle shaved at the table.

The prelude is so light that it may be followed by a few more courses. Rather, must because the GO manages not to have any hang-ups within the menu. Instead, each plate is an independent course that always focuses on the essential product and whets the appetite for the next.

Hamachi sashimi with yuzukosho, a paste of yuzu, salt and chilli pepper, oysters with beluga caviar, tuna belly rag and gilthead with mint are served as a fine fish edition, resembling an etagere or rather a floral and epicurean terrace tower. With the Japanese dumplings gyoza, the kitchen takes the liberty of combining the luxury products Wagyu and foie gras into one filling - noble and successful.

Sashimi and nigiri could be understood as sorbet. An intermediate course with a fresh and neutralising effect prepares the palate for more. A unique feature: the freshly grated wasabi. This is followed by caramelised black cod (coalfish), an almost dessert-like, otherwise purist main course.

Another bundle of culinary power will soon join the sweet finale: Schöneberg's Café Komine, known for its French-Japanese cakes. GO by Steffen Henssler is set up as a pop-up. Until the summer, then we'll see - hopefully with an extension.

Manuela Blisse

Author Berlin