Lesendro Taste of the Adriatic

There are many fish restaurants in Berlin. But there is only one where you can try the Adriatic sea kitchen, influenced by Croatian and Montenegrian cuisine. Jadranska kuhinja, as the owner of Lesendro, Vlado Kosic, says.

He grew up in Montenegro, on the east coast of the Adriatic, and that's where his recipes come from - collected over a lifetime from neighbours, friends, and his own grandmother.

For many years he successfully ran the Lesendro on Kollwitzplatz. Then, at some point, he felt like a change of neighbourhood. When the Markthallen Bar in Moabit's Arminiusmarkthalle became available, he jumped at the chance. For a long time now, he has been running the Serbian bistro Sljiva there, together with his wife.

Despite all the logistical advantages of the move, it was first and foremost a decision of the heart: Vlado Kosic appreciates the relaxed atmosphere, the togetherness of the stallholders, the mixed clientele. "I even come here when I'm not working," he says with a laugh.

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Vlado Kosic is a relaxed person, and charming host. He jokes with his guests, greets acquaintances, joins me with a glass of wine to tell his story, then again disappears briefly behind the grill to sizzle a portion of octopus.

Which brings us to the food: If you love fish and seafood, Lesendro is the place to be. "Fishing is my life," says the owner. So what distinguishes his Adriatic sea kitchen? The reduction to the essentials: salt, pepper, herbs, lemon, a little white wine and olive oil - that's all he needs for his fish. It tastes like a holiday in the south, like sun and sea.

The dishes come in tapas size - so you can try different things or just enjoy a bite or two with the wine. A large selection of Eastern European wines is served: The focus lies on Serbia, a country that has a lot to offer in terms of wine!

On recommendation, I drink a Cuvée by Oszkar Maurer, who works mainly with autochthonous grape varieties and is one of Serbia's best-known winemakers. His Babba is so good - intense, creamy, with notes of orange and honey - that I don't say no when the boss generously tops me up.

But back to the food: For the hungry and indecisive, the Montenegrin seafood platter is recommended, a mix of everything the sea offers culinary-wise: Prawns, calamari, mussels and - my favourite - crispy grilled and buttery octopus. Add roasted vegetables and a little lemon to that, and that's all you need! Reduction to the essentials.

If you order two days in advance, you also get a whole grilled fish, freshly prepared by the chef. For the sake of completeness, it should be mentioned that there are also a few non-fish tapas, classics like plums wrapped in bacon, pimientos or figs with goat cheese. But you should visit Lesendro mainly for its maritime dishes - the unique jadranska kuhinja that Vlado Kosic brought to Berlin.