Restaurants
Grosz Roland Mary resurrects Kudamm’s Allure
Those who know me know I’m easily enthused but newly opened Kaffeehaus Grosz made me border on hysteria. Was I still in Berlin? How many times have I passed this house, a hundred times? A thousand times? Not once did it cross my mind that this gem would be hidden behind the grey facade.
With a new restaurant underneath ceilings that reach 8 meters, amidst cream-colored Art Nouveau pillars, narrow galleries and antique mirrors, Roland Mary manages to bring back a certain 1920s charm. It feels as if Kurt Tucholsky or Erich Kästner could enter the door at any given moment.
They would’ve been spoiled with French-inspired delicacies, from breakfast to dinner. After devouring a homemade Brioche Armand you truly start to wonder whether heaven and hell worked together on this one. It’s basically impossible to choose between divine goodness and infernal temptation.
One thing is for sure: this culinary concept store that combines bar, coffeehouse, restaurant and pâtisserie will soon be a Berlin must-see. And what I love most about it: it’s not in Mitte!
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German Text Constanze Hallensleben
