Punker RestaurantRejuvenated German and Austrian Classics

Friday, May 30, 2014
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Opening Times

Restaurant Punker has closed since July 2014.

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Address Restaurant Punker
Eppendorfer Landstraße 165
20251 Hamburg-Eppendorf
How to get there
price level€ € 

When we entered Punker restaurant, we instantly knew that patrons Ulli Dunker and Michi Pohanke had managed to create something special here. Along the way to our table our looks wandered along the walls adorned with opalescent tiles in the warmest hues of grey, a photographic interpretation of Vermeer, artfully laid out mosaic floors and refined leather furniture. We sat down by the window with additional view into the half-open kitchen.

We started out with a rich green soup of spinach and peas, atop of which a few white pike dumplings were floating weightlessly. The clear mineral Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire was a perfect match. Fish continued to be the carrying flavor throughout the second course: juicy halibut on two kinds of Risini beans, seasoned with fresh thyme and served with a light potato blini. The beef tenderloin of the main course was my personal highlight of the night. The meat was perfectly pink with a slight crisp to it on the outside, served on a creamy puree of potatoes and scallions, and savoy cabbage on the side. But the true star was the flavorful tarragon gravy.

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When the grand finale arrived in the middle of our table, we quickly realized that the guys at Punker sure know how to show off their sweet side too: curd with a gently sour rhubarb compote, steaming dark chocolate 'malheur' with vanilla sauce, red wine ice cream and – my favorite – a caramel shortcake with sour cream ice cream, pear compote and a dab of foamed chocolate.

As the evening was drawing to a close, we couldn't help but notice that this had been much more of an exhilarating symphony than a punk concert – until we found out that owners 'Pohanke' and 'Dunker' simply combined their names. And out came the Punker. Chef de cuisine Siggi Danler, however, is in charge of all things food symphony. Standing ovation!

Hamburg
Punker Restaurant – Rejuvenated German and Austrian Classics
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