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Les DeuxExquisite Indulgence in Schäfflerhof

Friday, September 25, 2015
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Les Deux München Vorspeise
Map
Opening Times

Reservations Monday till Saturday
12.00-13.30 and 18.30-21.00

Address Les Deux
Maffeistraße 3A
Schäfflerhof
80333 Munich-Altstadt
How to get there
Contact
+49 89 71 04 07 373
www.lesdeux-muc.de
price level € € €

Even before having tasted the food at Les Deux restaurant, one thing is clear: tonight will be quite the experience. I know this because one, the reputation of Fabrice Kieffer, Johann Rappenglück, and their team precedes them- and a Michelin star and 17 Gault Millau points seldom lie- and two, the locality itself is very impressive.

The glassy "home" of the restaurant stands in Schäfflerhof in the middle of central Munich like a large triangular wedge. Much to our pleasure, we're allowed to take our place at a table in the farthest corner- where we get the impression of sitting at the prow of a cruise ship. As if he'd guessed as much, the charming master of the house Fabrice Kieffer introduces himself shortly thereafter and offers to accompany us on a "wine voyage" befitting the evening menu.

The journey begins promisingly, with a few prickly drops from the family-owned Alsatian vineyard complimented by a mini version of Flammkuchen, a popular dish in the region. Another greeting arrives from the kitchen- a mushroom essence in "espresso form" is accompanied by a miniature variety of a classic: a tiny burger with tender turkey breast and truffle. The combination of sesame and light spice gives us a good idea of what the "modern French cuisine with Japanese influence" of the restaurant may involve…

Les Deux München Dessert
Les Deux München Fleisch
Les Deux München Innenraum
Les Deux München Außenansicht

The first course confirms that this is going to be absolutely fantastic: the steak tartar cut from Wagyu beef, duck liver, autumn truffle, and quail egg aren't just palatally an excellent combination, but an indulgent sight for the eyes as well. The duck liver, presented here not as a paste, but rather an ice creme, is truly a new discovery on this leg of our "journey."

Another highlight are the Majorcan prawns that follow, enthroned on a frothy bisque and accentuating the contrast to the ratatouille served with it.

We stick to our maritime route for the third course and enjoy our "Breton devilfish / tomato / bloody dock / saffron." This dish continues on the culinary road to success, which doesn’t surprise us after the previously dream-worthy courses.

Next, a gangway brings us back to our native region: Bavarian roast saddle of venison in hibiscus crust over an airy celery puree. With a mischievous laugh, Kieffer creates a swimming pool on our plates with a sauce that tastes of port wine, juniper, and cardamom, conjuring cozy autumnal vibes.

With each dish, our master of the house serves a perfectly paired wine, as he'd only promised. Sip for sip, we discover the distinctive specialties of the grape varieties from Alsace, Rheingaus, Bourgogne, and Trentino.

And finally- once we're certain that our previous indulgences can't be topped– our dessert emerges. Nondescriptly named Yogurt - Les Deux and advertised as a "whiff of nothing", we can't help but disagree: this flavourfully bewitching creation of white chocolate, raspberries, yogurt, and egg white is certainly not "nothing"- it’s the perfect end to a perfect menu.

We head home with the knowledge that we definitely have not experienced the duo Kieffer and Rappenglück's culinary journey for the last time…

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Les Deux – Exquisite Indulgence in Schäfflerhof
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