OLSEN Seasonal Cuisine for Connaisseurs

Organic beef or Fjord trout? Vegan or maybe even frutarian? A never-ending story that does not seize to be a hot topic. Restaurant OLSEN does it differently. They're all about good food – with or without animal products. One thing is for sure: they cook without the big fuzz. But with a whole lot of sense for exquisite flavors, seasonal products and the highest quality.

Upon arrival, head of service Maren served us an iced Lillet Blanc with a peel of fresh orange zest. Grilled watermelon with sizzling fleur de sel, a cooled Gazpacho shot, crunchy fresh cucumber and basil were served straigh out the kitchen to wake up all our senses. The following was a maties tartar that developed its full spice in effect. Along came velvety cream, slivers of crisp radishes, icey green basil sorbet – as good as it was unusual! The fragrant cuvée of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio of the Schembs vineyard was the cherry on top.

Crunchy, sizzling hot Pakoras were served next, along red onion, cauliflower and eggplant on red lentil dal and diced tomato. Little flavor accents were succesfully set by fresh mint, creamy cumin-yogurt and fruity mango chutney. The slightly sparkling Blanc de Noir from Rheinhessen, again, went along perfectly, and we didn't even notice that all this was meat-free.

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The entrée was a trio of lamb: a pink sear, a juicy braise and a zesty meatball were served on housemade gravy and red wine risotto. May turnips al dente and chanterelles with tomatos completed the full plate of late summer flavors. Surprisingly fitting: the concoction of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in form of a 2012 'Aufwind' Rosé.

The OLSEN crew's dessert took us back to childhood. A light, yet sweet yogurt mousse combined with strawberry sorbet was one thing, and one thing only: Ed von Schleck. Served alongside a mousse of dark chocolate, caramelized pistachios and a fluffy raspberry-chocolate-tartrlet.

The charming and well-trained team around Ole Plogstedt will make many a palate happy, be it with soy milk or bacon cubes.

Eliane Muller

Guest Author Hamburg