Volt – Relax & enjoy at Umspannwerk
It was already dark when we took a turn onto Paul-Lincke-Ufer last Tuesday. Here inside the impressive walls of softly lit Umspannwerk, you’ll find the restaurant VOLT. We stepped down a few stairs and found before us an interior made up of copper and brick. Someone definitely knew what they were doing and managed to create a comfortable atmosphere despite the immensely high ceilings.
We felt cozy in an instant, agreed to an aperitif and started roaming the FOOD menu. One fish and meat dish each, as well as a vegetarian alternative is on the menu. All entrées can be combined with each other and that is how we ended up ordering ‘Hoggishness’, wild mushroom risotto and dry aged beef.
The master chef newcomer of 2011 Matthias Gleiß welcomed us with an amuse-gueule that consisted of cauliflower panna cotta, black chick peas and starweed, as well as a roll of venison saddle with wasabi cream and cumin crumble. I got the gluten-free variation with quinoa - both of us were completely happy and sent our best regards to the kitchen.
‘Hoggishness’ was the first course - pork filet and blackpudding were served with red cabbage, a fried onion panna cotta and cranberry sauce. A composition that, if nothing else, scores with its diverse textures: creamy panna cotta, crunchy cabbage and tender meat, and a crispy pumpkin seed brittle. Fantastic!
Forbearingly, the wild mushroom risotto that we intended to share already came apportioned in two bowls. Black chanterelles, creamed and fresh topinambur as well as cinnamon fused pear rendered the whole thing a seasonal happening, and are delicious to the last bite.
And even though we’re close to the end, another amuse-bouche came out of the kitchen: pear sorbet with roasted quinoa crumble. Prepared this way, quinoa starts popping once you start chewing. An effect we were absolutely not familiar with but started enjoying from the first second on.
When the last course arrived, our dry aged beef, almost all tables around us were taken - on a Tuesday! Along with the beef came potato slices, grilled shallots and a delicate piece of crispbread with cream cheese. Happy face, again. Continue, Mr. Gleiß!
An espresso to finish off this lush dinner experience that was accompanied by a solid wine selection by the way. We looked around the warm room once again, took in the atmosphere and the height and couldn’t stop staring at those beautiful copper-colored lamps.