Traube - Feasting in a Kollhoff Interior
It’s quiet on Reinhardtstraße in Mitte as soon as the sun sets. Offices and government buildings are closing, people are on their way home and you can barely feel the usual business of the day. Five steps take you up a little stair to Traube. We got a warm welcome and were seated at the “Chancellorettes’ Table”. She actually had dinner at this very table - Angela Merkel! That was about a year ago. And legend has it that that’s where the grand coalition started.
Architects Hans Kollhoff and Helga Timmermann took on responsibility for this former blacksmith’s workshop a few years ago and gave it a whole new splendor. A bit of Biedermeier, and a hint of Prussian Classicism even. It’s absolutely inviting. And it’s obvious that no one cut back on valuable materials, or love for details for that matter.
The kitchen is lead by patron Wolfram Ritschl who has been also been responsible for PARIS MOSKAU, a true Berlin institution, for the past 30 years. He describes the cuisine at Traube as “sensuous, South German, almost alpine”, and we were extremely excited to find out more about creations like “Saddle of Venison in a Bread Crust, Brussel Sprout Duo and Pomegranate Jus” or “Veal Tartar, Quail Egg, Foamed Celery and Black Walnut”.
The appetizers of our choice were a “Green Pea Foam with fried Scallops and Mint” and said veal tartar with a fried quail egg. And after a few minutes of silent testing and tasting, we agreed that we’d made the right choice.
The venison saddle, which we ordered with potato wedges instead of the bread crust, seems juicy and rosy and tastes just as good as it looks. The vegetables on the side are still a bit crisp, just the way we like it. The pomegranate jus is fresh and fruity and its sweetness goes along perfectly with the gravy reduction. A dish that truly warms us up from the inside and lets us sink even deeper into the beautiful green leather upholstery.
After a short break my friend decided to go for a dessert - “Four kinds of chocolate, rosemary-honey-pear and raspberry sorbet”. My spoon drowns in chocolate mousse. A beautiful finale to a successful night!