Rutz Weinbar – Silent Trendsetters
It’s been many years since wine bar Rutz arrived “to save German food culture.” Head chef Marco Müller has been cooking here for an entire twelve years and would have long deserved a second star in the restaurant above the wine bar. He came up with the idea to rejuvenate old classics, like pig knuckles, black pudding, and roulade, and bring them up to a whole new level- an ideal base for the first class wines served in the bar and a reminder of our favourite childhood dishes.
Which is why to this day traditional things such as “grilled black pudding from Berlin” or “Beuthe’s pickled pig knuckles with potato-sauerkraut and carrots” are a fixed part of the menu. Very finely prepared with familiar aromas but without the traditional heaviness. The atmosphere in which these dishes are served is not just, as the name would suggest, that of a bar. The high chamber, quiet background beats, and chill ambient: Rutz Weinbar is a place where you’re served first-class food alongside a glass of first-class wine.
We order the appetisers shown on their blackboards: beef tartar, pork ribs with poppy and bbq sauce, and the aforementioned blood sausage. While my companion is enthralled with the tender ribs and mange tout puree, I am smitten by the blood sausage. It comes from a manufacturer in Neukölln and, with the puree, vegetables, and in particular the lightly sweet onions and herbs, makes for a rounded, harmonious course that sits in the stomach nicely.
We declare the intermediate course- crispy shellfish with fresh truffle, potato-butter puree, and tossed spinach- the highlight of the evening even before having a chance to enjoy our mains. Truffle dealer Massimo brought the white tuber fresh from Piemont this morning and it brings the already exquisite fish course to a divine level. Absolutely to die for! The Irish Hereford dry-aged steak with perfectly cooked vegetables from “Farmer Uwe” that follows can’t even compare, despite the excellent quality and taste.
After all these delicacies and much to our dismay, we had no room left at the end for the alluring desserts: Berlin cheesecake, refined with almonds and a touch of salt and served with fruit in rum and fresh berry sorbet, or “chocolate chick” with pear ragout and almond ice cream. So don’t forget: definitely leave room for a sweet finale!
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