Rutz Restaurant – Ineffably Good
This post will without a doubt be long. I am aware of it. But I don't mind because I want to pay tribute to this place. It is so honest, authentic and culinarily genius at the same time that upon the arrival of the amuse-gueules we promptly start wondering how and when stars are distributed in this city. No fuss, no strain here. Head chef Marco Müller and sommelier Christoph Geyler simply serve perfection at Rutz Restaurant.
Delicate slices of dried vegetables with dabs of cream greet us. The joy continues with bread and fennel butter – both so good, we have to force ourselves to stop before it's too late. The next bit comes in form of a cream and foam of yellow beets and trout, followed by the finale of the pre-courses: a creation of avocado, black bean and a dust of black-pudding.
The actual menu commences and I am ready to give each course my undivided attention. The evening, however, continues as buoyantly as it started. Without any pretentious gestures or conveying any sense of awe. One perfect dish after the other is being served making it seem as if Marco Müller's impeccable compositions were the most natural thing on earth.
We struggle for words. The flavors, the light and elegant presentation of components that leave a pleasingly nurturing feeling nonetheless, as well as the ease of the entire evening make this menu an adventure that will long be remembered. We're absolutely enamored!
To name each one of the accompanying, unfailingly flawless and downright ideally coordinated wine pairings would simply go beyond the constraints of this piece. But there is not a single glass that did not complement each course to absolute perfection – not a single bottle that my company wouldn't like to take home for storage in the very own wine cellar.
Geyler has a few words to say about each wine. But they're never too many and never intrusive, always a bit poetic and ever so avid about what he serves. Be it the aperitif, that is a 'Raumland' Winzersekt sparkling wine, or the apple brandy served at the end. A sommelier with all his heart and soul! Last year, Rutz was responsible for the 'Wine Menu of the Year'.
We leave taking with us four bottles of winery Winning's 'Rutz Rebellen'. Those were the most diverting three hours I have ever spent at a restaurant. And they were ineffably good!