Restaurant GLASS – Gal Ben Moshe’s never-never land
Chef and proprietor of Restaurant GLASS, located on the Steinplatz in Charlottenburg, doesn’t completely appear to be of this world. Dreamy. Full of fathomless secrets. Gal Ben Moshe seems to live in his own universe. He wholeheartedly lives by his motto, “no love is more sincere than the love for food.” Like a boy secretly experimenting in his room, he works meticulously. Develops. And at the end is always something brilliant and unexpected.
Formalities play a small role. The interior is laid-back. Cool. Futuristic. Like the setting of a sci-fi film. And the longer we sit, the better we feel. Manager Juliana Probst is mainly responsible for this, as she passionately provides us with comprehensive information on the subject of wines. With a glass of champagne we are served “Yuba”- dehydrated skin of soy milk with “Togarashi,” a mix of Japanese peppers and miso emulsion. Excellent spice. Headstrong. A great start.
After a fine Amuse-Bouche comes a finger food duet: the falafel bites with sardines, Greek yogurt, and scallions and the bacon and eggs both prove how international the cuisine is. Ben Moshe is an Israeli citizen and has previously worked in London, Tel Aviv, and Chicago before he came to Berlin in 2012 to open his own restaurant.
Reading the menu is like reading a book of short stories… The idea for “Forest in GLASS” came about during a walk through Grunewald: under the lid of a mason jar, even the misty morning fog is imitated with smoky fumes. An onion soup comes in the form of cream of caramelised onions with melted gruyere cheese chips and diced pain perdu. After that, a grand interpretation of beef tartar made from wagyu fillet, black garlic, olive oil powder, crispy topinambur, and a béarnaise sauce ice cream. Following a felicitous minestrone, the kitchen serves a fantastic refresher with radish sorbet. Absolutely incredible!
The main courses “Jerusalem” with poulet de bresse, cauliflower, green Palestinian wheat, and okra salad and the American wagyu entrecôte are also truly brilliant and the meat is perfectly smooth. Ben Moshe surprises us once more with his dessert “Knafeh”: goat cheese sorbet on a paper thin bed of angel hair dough served with raspberry fruit leather, rosewater gel and yogurt balls, caramelised pumpkin, and pumpkin puree. The history of the land of milk and honey brought to the plate!