Martha's Restaurant – Cocktails and Stews
For its first few months, there was no path leading to Martha’s restaurant on Grunewaldstraße in Schöneberg. The hype surrounding this has hardly let up in the last few years and created an incentive for the continuous advancement of the master plan- for the youngest of Forbes magazine’s European “thirty under thirty: food and wine” listed chefs Manuel Schmuck, for father and daughter, and particularly for the new restaurant manager, Sander Bosmann, who is brimming with new ideas.
The Dutch actor moved to the Spree a year ago and now continually proves himself the perfect host. His number one plan for the future is to further establish the bar, which not many are fully aware of. A shame, really, considering the first-rate Pisco Sour certainly isn’t the only cocktail the guys behind the counter have mastered with perfection. A lot has happened since our last visit to Martha’s over a year ago. New faces. Cocktails. Long drinks. And it speaks for itself that there’s a new menu.
We decide on “citrus breast of veal” with parsnip, shiitake, cabbage, and bone marrow along with mackerel in red cabbage juice with sous vide cooked red cabbage puree, roasted buckwheat noodles, and onion juice fresh-pressed at the table. We are extremely happy with both dishes. Down to Earth with fresh accents and well-rounded. The main course follows with “wild black sow” with Bamberger squirrel, wasabi, wild broccoli, and chestnuts for one, and hand caught “devil fish bake” with cauliflower, algae, quince, and walnuts for the other. The wild pig tastes similar to smoked pork chops, the fish fresh and perfectly baked.
Advised by the house, we go for the daily changing stewpot, today cooked with spare ribs and vegetables. We can hardly control ourselves and decide that at our next visit we will order a large portion and work through the bar’s repertoire, drink for drink- good thing Martha’s bar stays open after the kitchen closes.
Read our post 2014 about Martha's >>>