Margaux - Culinary Pictures of an Exhibition
The courses of Michael Hoffmann’s menu at Restaurant Margaux line up just like paintings at an art exhibition. On every dish designed by Stefanie Hering, be it plate, bowl or platter one can find a little piece of art. Creations so beautiful, that it was hard for me to eat them, because eating them meant destroying them. Not a single herb is placed by chance, everything has its proper place, everything is carefully arranged up until the smallest detail.
For 13 years Hoffmann has been an inherent part of this Berlin gourmet kitchen which has made a name for itself in the last years, especially for its fine herb-and vegetable dishes. Every night anew, guests from all over the world make this a multicultural experience.
The renowned cook has learned at Eckart Witzigmann in Munich and spent another 10 years at the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg. Here in Berlin he found his very own way to prepare meals; he complied to the ‘ethics of cooking’ and reduced the meat and removed meals like Foie gras and tuna completely off the menu.
Instead he prefers herbs, vegetables and fruits that he grows in his own nearby gardens and uses for his culinary creations. With his creative vegetable menus he has proven how great vegetarian kitchen can taste.
I can say that I have never eaten so well and I hope that I will have another chance to eat at this formidable restaurant again. Because there is one little con - isn't there always? - to be able to eat this fine food one must pay a little fortune. I don't regret a penny, though.
Whoever has seen the movie “Entre les Bras” about the French gourmet cook Michel Bras knows how much work and creativity have to be put into their work. I was almost fearful that one of the many flavours could escape my tongue. It was a true explosion of taste and an extravaganza that I will remember for a long time!