Jungbluth – Fine Regional Cuisine, Frill-Free
After over a year of a range of reliably exhilarating visits, I find that it’s finally time to write about what chefs Felix Leisegang and Andre Sawahn, who are far too modest in my opinion, do in their restaurant Jungbluth in Steglitz: simply damn good cooking!
The menu is easy-reading and clearly laid out: three starters, two each of fish and meat dishes, and two desserts and cheese. By way of greeting, the kitchen sends a creamy pumpkin soup in a preserves jar to start, on the lid of which a wonderfully crisp grilled piece of charr is enthroned. “Ok, I’m only eating soup,” my companion says decidedly after the first bite.
A rucola salad with fresh mango, Asian seasoning, and sweet-salty pine nuts reminds us that it is indeed still summer, making a strong impression with the aromatic dressing and perfectly ripe sweetness of the mango. The fish that follows comes with mashed potato, sauerkraut, and fried savoy in tow and tastes absolutely heavenly.
Our meal continues with the “calamaretti with leek and baby potatoes served two ways”, which becomes the clear highlight of the evening. A lively combination of steamed radishes, dill, and tart shallots accompany the small calamari rings, igniting an explosion of aromas.
Both of the main courses- guinea fowl with artichokes, potato-olive ragout, and romanesco for one, Icelandic redfish with navette, braised cucumber, and tarragon for the other- are damn good as well. Unfortunately they don’t leave much room for a sweet finish, and so a shared single portion of white chocolate ganache with mirabelle and sunflower brittle more than suffices.
“That was very nice,” we hear the man at the table next to us say as his plate is cleared. And then he adds, somewhat dejectedly, “Shame that it’s already over.” – How right he is!