Jolesch – traditional and modern Austrian cuisine
For twenty years Jolesch has been serving both Austrian classics of the highest standard and modern dishes that have been awarded multiple Gault Millau points. There's nothing like the Austrian wine list with 350 entries elsewhere in Berlin. In winter, a crackling fire cosies up the dining area; in summer, the alluring terrace enjoyed by many.
It's still a bit crisp to enjoy the outdoor seating area on our visit, so we take our place in the large old Berlin dining area. The interior is of classic design, with eccentric lighting along the walls, yet still creates an easy-going, modern ambience. Our evening starts with a delectable aperitif, the "Schilcher Frizzante" from Reiterer vineyard.
A selection of appetisers is meant to give us an impression of the menu. To begin, a "lukewarm Baltic salmon", incredibly tender and accompanied by a raw asparagus salad with wild herbs, potato foam, and spicy mustard ice cream that makes us eager for more. We also enjoy the "carrot and saffron", a scallop on a sesame-granola cracker infused with a creamy carrot-saffron soup.
Tiny "spareribs of Fürstenberger boar" set the transition to a trio of miniature Austrian classics: Wienerschnitzel on potato salad, juice goulash, and prime boiled beef. Everything was prepared on point and just the way we like it in our Alpen kitchens: a thin slice of veal with the perfect breading, the beef gingerly boiled in a fine broth, and a goulash that lived up to its name. The main course included a wonderful al dente Beelitzer asparagus with a delicate hollandaise sauce and trout with potatoes.
The dessert leaves one final good impression: an insanely fine chocolate cream on hibiscus ice cream and rhubarb compote served in a flower pot. We will definitely be back soon. Perfect for the legendary lunch menu, for a piece of Jolesch-torte in the afternoon, or for a sociable evening dinner — why have we only just now found this?