Austeria - Oysters, Lobsters & Company in Grunewald
The storm had just passed but it was still pouring rain when we entered Austeria Brasserie in Grunewald last week, and were consequently kept from enjoying the true gem of this restaurant, the breathtaking terrace! It's definitely one of the most beautiful places to wine and dine. But the pleasure continues inside, too – we're greeted politely and lead to our table. The menu follows along with fresh bread, olive oil and roasted black pepper-infused salt.
Off the daily menu, we ordered 'Bœuf Tatar à la Mode' and scallops with asparagus au gratin. The tatar ingredients are served individually first, then prepared at the table. The only thing I asked for in addition was another dash of Tabasco, everything else was perfect as it was. I was head over heels! Our entrées were a classic Surf'n'Turf and a whole grilled gilthead with orange-fennel and parmesan gnocchi. Both solids.
The restaurant's actual highlight however, was the patron Walter Schuber himself. He has been an important part of Berlin's fine cuisine for 45 years now and you can still see him in his restaurant almost every day. He makes it a habit to stop by every table, greet customers personally and even tells a tale or two about his life from time to time. As my profession wants it, I'm always eager to dig a little deeper, so I did.
I found out that the Austeria was located on Kurfürstendamm for seven years before moving to Hundekehlestraße two years ago. By that time Vienna-born Schuber had already turned into quite the entrepreneur. One of his most important stops along the way was definitely the Châlet Corniche in Grunewald, where he used to cook for celebrities like Tom Jones, Horst Buchholz or Curt Jürgens, with whom he once sat up all night drinking champagne due to a power blackout.
Whatever the man does, he still does it right. When we went, the room was crowded with regulars and the atmosphere was close to familiar. We will make sure to come back on a mild summer night. And then we'll try the specialty: fresh oysters.